European mounts have become very popular over the last several years. Why? Affordability, space savings within the dwelling, and but the classic eye-catching look of a skull. In many ways, skulls are artistic in and of themselves. Plates of bone, separated by fissures, create ivory-colored, iii-dimensional puzzles. Optic canals, incredibly complex nasal passages, worn teeth, and more are all conspicuously designed with a specific office. Add night, sweeping antlers or horns, and a European mount tin can be the centerpiece of any studio.
Fifty-fifty if you don't adopt the look of a skull mount, having your skull boiled prior to leaving the unit might be a requirement, depending on where you hunt or alive. Hither's how to do it:
Recommended tools/supplies: Bridger Boiler, sharp stout-bladed knife, multi-tool, water, blistering soda, Dawn detergent, forty volume hydrogen peroxide, Basic White pulverisation, and articulate matte spray paint.
Remove all Flesh and Tissue from the Skull
To remove the skin, simply cutting through the skin from the throat to the nose, and so straight over the acme of the skull. With antlered game, make an additional cutting betwixt the antlers from burr to burr. Be careful non to press the knife's tip too hard into the skull every bit you tin can score the os itself. Touching the bone is fine, simply don't press besides hard.
Peel/cut the skin off each side of the skull. Apply a flathead screwdriver to pry stubborn hide away and around the base of the antlers. Utilize pliers to take hold of and pull the hide if necessary.
To remove the lower jaw, cutting all connective tissue of the jaw muscles. The lower jaw extends at a 90-degree angle toward the eye socket, behind the eye. Cutting all tissue on both sides of each jawbone, finer disconnecting the working function of the jaw. At present, brainstorm to strength the animal's rima oris open. Keep spreading the jaws apart, cutting any remaining tissue, until the jaw, tongue, and pharynx become completely freed from the skull.
Trim ALL meat, fat, and connective tissue from the skull, as this volition save boiling time.
Remove the eyes by cutting the optic nerve, ocular muscles, and vessels. Go on cutting until you can catch the eye and pull it out of the socket.
Removing the brain can be the near deadening role of the process. It is essential to remove the brain prior to boiling as the brain is near 60% fatty. These oils will stain the skull if non removed prior to boiling. Being a soft organ, the encephalon will turn to mush if you lot vigorously swirl a long screwdriver/stick in the large hole where the spinal cord exits the skull. Once the brain is whipped, withdraw the gray affair with the tip of the screwdriver. That said, a much faster and more than constructive way to reach this is with the aid of a cordless drill and a hole saw. I use a ii-inch hole saw for deer-sized animals and larger. Centering the center bit of the pigsty saw on the lesser side of the brain cavity, drill directly through the bottom of the skull. Yous'll now have a ii-inch hole to easily remove the brain. (This hole will simply be visible if you look at the bottom side of the skull.) Apply water to rinse the brain cavity of any remaining tissue, and fix to eddy.
Simmer the Skull
With the proper setup, boiling is the easiest part. Convincing your wife to let you do this in your kitchen, well, that'south a fleck more difficult. That'due south where the Bridger Banality comes in. Designed by western hunter Eric Doering, this setup can save the twenty-four hour period (and your marriage). Eric lives in Minnesota, and he designed this product specifically with CWD regulations in mind. Its portability allows y'all to do this entire process at the trailhead, allowing for legal send of cervid skulls throughout the state. Failure to comply with CWD laws could upshot in confiscation and incineration of your trophy, non to mention fines. It's not worth the risk.
Add ane box of baking soda and ½ cup of Dawn detergent to the h2o, and bring to a simmer. The baking soda will help soften the tissue, the Dawn will help pause down any grease. A rolling boil will melt the skull too fast, compromising the integrity of the bone. A simmer is ideal.
Submerge the skull completely into the water. Balance can exist a existent claiming with a large elk skull in a conventional pot, as there is smashing potential for the entire matter to tip over. The Bridger Boiler works corking with its angled front, wide base, and antler support bar. Avoid submerging the antlers if possible, as some discoloration can occur.
Embrace the pot. The Bridger Boiler has a split cover that works excellent at retaining oestrus as your skull boils.
Let the skull to simmer for about an hour, then remove it in order to trim whatsoever loosened tissue. The nasal septum can be removed with needle-olfactory organ pliers and a screwdriver. The ear canals tin be removed past inserting a screwdriver and prying them out. I like to dial holes in the back of the sinuses to remove whatever sinus tissue. Replace the skull into the water.
Repeat steps eight-x until in that location is NO tissue remaining.
Whiten the Skull
Wearing gloves, mix a slurry of 40 volume hydrogen peroxide and Bones White (nigh the consistency of a smoothie), and employ information technology liberally to the unabridged skull, avoiding the antlers.
Identify the skull in a waterproof bag such every bit a kitchen trash bag.
Identify the bagged skull in hot water and allow it to sit down for 30 minutes. The estrus will activate the whitening process.
Remove the skull from the bag, and rinse the skull with hot h2o.
If farther whitening is desired, echo steps 12-xiv.
Permit to dry out completely, then spray with a quality clear matte spray paint and allow to dry.
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